Travel Guide ISTAMBUL.
ThE CITy
Constantinople, the centre of the byzantine Empire which lasted over a thousand years, later became Istanbul, the capital of the ottoman Empire for almost 500 years. The city is a mixture of Europe and Asia, a unique urban composition. A stroll around Sultanahmet, inside the city walls, among mosques, museums and the Great bazaar is a trip through both history and daily life. Modern Istanbul is on the other side of the Galata bridge in beyoglu, around Taksim and the northern suburbs with lots of good restaurants and shopping. Istanbul’s Asiatic quarters have avoided much of the tourism and have retained a more humdrum character. Waterways play a central role in the life of the city and boat traffic on the bosporus, the Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmara is extremely intensive. Along the banks you can find small cafés where you can enjoy a glass of tea and magnificent views over the town.

Turkish baths
It’s said that if you’ve never tried a Turkish bath then you’ve never been rally clean. The visitor moves through several hot rooms and finally arrives at the massage table for a real going over. Men and women bathe separately. Exceptions are made at certain times for tourists. Here is one recommended bathhouse: Çemberlitas Hamam. Situated near the bazaar, this is the oldest hamam in town and was reputedly built by the master architect Sinan.
Address: Vezirhan Cad. 8, Sultanahmet Tel: +90 212 5227974
Topkapi palace
The palace of the sultans with its many courtyards and gates is more reminiscent of a fossilised camp than a palace. There are several special museums in the area. The Treasure Chamber, where the famous dagger and Spoonmaker diamond are the real rarities of the collection, and the harem, where the sultan’s wives and children lived, is not included in the ticket to the palace.
Price: 12 YTL Address: Babihümayun Cad., Sultanahmet Tel: +90 212 5120480 www.guideistanbul.net
Aya sofya
Aya Sofya is a remarkable mixture of Christianity and Islam; a church with minarets and a mosque with pictures of the Virgin Mary. The building is one of the wonders of world architecture which was only surpassed after a thousand years by St. Peter’s church in the sixteenth century.
Address: Ayasofya Meydani, Sultanahmet Tel: +90 212 5221750
sultanahmet or the Blue Mosque
built at the beginning of the sixteenth century, this is the only mosque in Istanbul with six minarets. The building was given its name by the 20,000 blue Iznik tiles used in its construction.
Address: Hippodromen, Sultanahmet Tel: +90 212 5181319
süleymaniye
Süleymaniye is the largest mosque dating from 1557 and also contains the mausoleum of sultan Süleyman and his wife Roxelane. The master architect Sinan built many of Istanbul’s mosques during the 1500s and is buries next to the mosque.
Address: Prof Siddik Sami Onar Cad. Sultanahmet
Chora Monastery / kariye Camii
The Monastery was founded in the fifth century and contains wonderfully beautiful frescos and mosaics dating from 1000-1300 representing the Virgin Mary and the life of Jesus.
Address: Kariye Camii Sok. Edirnekapi Stop: Erdinekapi, Tel: +90 212 6319241
Boat trips
boats travel along the shores of the bosporus from Eminönü. They chug quietly under the bridges that connect Europe and Asia. one hour away is Anadolukavagi, a little Asiatic fishing village with lots of pleasant restaurants. You can travel to the largest of the Prince Islands with a Seabus, departing from Kabatas below the Dolmabahçe Palace. If you want to visit more of these islands you can take the ordinary boat from Eminönü.
Address: Eminönü
great Bazaar
The Great bazaar attracts many people – far too many if you come at rush hour. It’s a good idea to arrive early in the morning and enjoy a cup of tea in one of the cafés whilst the bazaar comes to life. There are thousands of stalls, selling virtually everything; carpets, gold, cloth, spices. The bazaar is a world of its own and it’s easy – but fun – to get lost in the teeming alleyways. (See shopping)
Address: Carsikapi Cad. Beyasit, Sultanahmet

EvEnT hIghlIghTs
APRIL
TAngO nuEvO WEEk
5-9 AprilIntensive week of tango classes, lessons and performances to gear up for the Tango Festival in July.
www.istanbultangofestival.com
InTERnATIOnAl FIlM FEsTIvAl
1-16 April Celebrate cinema from around the world.
www.iksv.gov/film
MAY
InTERnATIOnAl ThEATRE FEsTIvAl
1-31 May Enjoy different types of theatre, from traditional to contemporary, from countries around the world.
www.iksv.org/tiyatro
COnquEsT WEEk CElEBRATIOns
13-19 May Week long festival with markets, music and traditional handicrafts to celebrate the anticipation of Atatürk’s Commemoration day, a national Turkish holiday.
www.istanbul.com
JuNE
IsTAnBul InTERnATIOnAl MusIC FEsTIvAl
7 - 26 June Renowned international festival offers opera, ballet, classical and music.
www.iksv.org/muzik
InTERnATIOnAl BOsPhOROus FEsTIvAl
1-30 June Yacht races and regattas at various locations along the bosphorous.
www.istanbul.com

EATIng
A meal often begins with meze, a number of small dishes such as aubergine purée, börek, various salads and cheese. Filling vegetables such as tomatoes, paprika, aubergines and zucchini with rice and minced meat is typically Turkish (dolmasi). There are special restaurants that only serve kebab or köfte, meatballs. Look for Kebabci or Köfteci. Simpler restaurants are called Lokanta.
Four seasons
The luxury Four Seasons hotel is a converted prison from around 1800 near the Topkapi Palace. The restaurant is in a round outbuilding on what was once the prison yard, and here you can eat like a prince.
Address: Tevfikhane Sokak 1, Sultanahmet Tel +90 212 638 8200
Pandeli
A lunch restaurant on the first floor of the Spice bazaar, decorated with blue Iznik tiles. Serves traditional Turkish food with some Greek dishes. There are several small, cheap lokantas in the Spice bazaar,
Address: Misir Carsisi 1, Eminönü Tel: +90 212 5273909
yakub 2
Situated on a side street to Istiklâl Cad. And the owner, Yakub Arslan, serves traditional meze to bohemian regulars and cultural celebrities. Address: Asmali Mescit Cad. 35-37,
Beyoglu, Tel: +90 212 2492925
Refik
Situated round the corner from Yakub 2 and run by one of his relatives. Serves homely Turkish classics that will make you want to return.
Address: Sofyali Sok. 10-12, Tünel, Beyoglu Tel: +90 212 2432834
Rejans
A little difficult to find, but worth the trouble, Rejans is on a side street to Istiklâl Cad. Started by Russians after the 1917 revolution, it has retained its aristocratic atmosphere and fine Russian cuisine.
Address: Olivio Geçidi 15, Beyoglu Tel: +90 212 2441610
kumkapi
A district near Sultanahmet with many good fish restaurants, for example Evren, tel: +90 212 5168659 or Denizkizi, tel: +90 212 5188659. Address: Kumkapi. Sultanahmet
galatasaray Fish Market and Çicek Pasaji
Halfway through the market runs the Nevizade, a lane with a string of good value Meyhanes, traditional taverns. The flower thoroughfare next to the market is a reconstructed restaurant street, but it’s a little more expensive here.
Address: Istiklâl Cad., Nevizade, Beyoglu

CAFés
Patisseri Pera
Time has stood still here since 1892 and you almost expect Mata Hari to sit down at the next table to enjoy one of the delicious pastries.
Address: Pera Palas, Mesrutiyet Cad. 98, Tebebasi, Beyoglu
Pierre loti kahves
This café is rightfully renowned for its fantastic view over the Golden Horn. Extremely popular with Turkish families and tourists.
Address: Eyüp
BARs And nIghTlIFE
The really trendy places are outside the city centre, in Etiler, Levent and Örtaköy, but there’s also plenty to do around Taksim.
Orient Express Bar
A nostalgic must, where kings, spies, writers and film stars have all taken a drink. Don’t forget to see Agatha Christie’s room 411 which is now a museum.
Address: Pera Palas, Mesrutiyet Cad. 98-100, Tepebasi, Beyoglu
Eski kulis Café-Bar
Turn in at the Atlas cinema and on the left is one of Istanbul’s oldest bars that also serves food. Lots of regulars from stage and cabaret.
Address: Istiklâl Cad. Beyoglu
kaktüs
A well-known, popular place where you can begin and end your night out.
Address: Imam Adnan Sok. 4, Beyoglu
kemanci
Restaurant, bar and pleasure temple on three floors. It’s been around for a long time but is still one of the most important nightlife addresses. Here you can listen to pop, rock and alternative music.
Address: Siraselviler Cad. 69/1-3, Taksim www.kemanci.org
Roxy
Another reliable address that has kept its position over the years with performances by national and international stars.
Address: Siraselviler Cad., Arslan Atari Sok. 3, Taksim Tel: +90 212 2456539

shOPPIng
Formerly, the various guilds had their own special areas in the Great bazaar, Kapali Çarsi, now it’s mostly leather, carpets and gold. The bazaar has over 5,000 shops and haggling is essential.
The Spice bazaar is at the base of the Galata bridge in Eminönü and is also called the Egyptian bazaar, because the imported spices came from Egypt. In the lanes around the bazaar you can buy cheeses, honey and sausages.
Istiklâl Caddesi is a once fashionable old street in the Pera district, now beyoglu. Much of the better shopping has moved to the suburb of Etiler, but some good shops remain. As well as being an old cinema, Atlas Han, Istiklâl Cad. 209 is also a shopping arcade with antique shops. other fine streets in Istanbul are Vali Konagi Caddesi in the Nisantasi district behind the Hilton Hotel, with many brand name shops. A good shopping district is the long bagdat Caddesi on the Asiatic side. There are many trendy brand name shops here and prices are sometimes lower than in town because few tourists find this area.
on the way to the airport next to the Sea of Marmara is Galleria, a large shopping centre. Another modern bazaar is Akmerkez in Etlier/Levent. There are 241 shops and restaurants on four floors. Take the Metro from Taksim.
EssEnTIAl InFORMATIOn
Airports
The international airport Atatürk Hava Limani is near the Sea of Marmara, around 25 km from the city centre. buses run to Taksim Square every 30 minutes, journey time 45 min, cost 6 euros. Taxis cost 15-20 euros. The simplest and quickest journey is by Metro to Aksaray and takes around 35 minutes and costs 1.30 YTL.
Tel: +90 212 6636400, www.ataturkairport.com
Istanbul’s other airport, Sabiha Gökçen, is on the Asiatic side and is used mostly by internal flights and some smaller airlines. The airport bus to Taksim costs 6 euros. There is no direct transport between the airports
- change at Taksim.

local transport
There is one public and one private bus network, IETT and Halk otobus respectively. The underground, Tünel, runs from Karaköy till Istiklâl Cad. in beyoglu and takes a few minutes. There is also a museum tram up towards Taksim Square. Another tram route, Tramway, goes from Kabatas via Galata bridge and the Spice bazaar to the south-western suburbs. The Metro goes from Taksim north to Levent and from Aksaray to otogar in Esenler, where buses depart for other parts of Turkey and Europe and to the airport. bus, Metro and tram cost 1.30 YTL in the city centre area. Dolmuses are minibuses or large taxis that depart when they are full and stop where you want them to. They are the cheapest form of transport. Ferries between Europe and Asia leave from Eminönü, Karaköy and besiktas to Üsküdar, Kadiköy and Harem. Akbil is a type of payment card that can be loaded with various sums and used on buses, boats and trams. Can be bought at major junctions. one-day cards costs 6.5 YTL and you can travel as much as you like.
Taxi
Taxis are yellow in the inner city and lilac in the suburbs. There are numerous taxi companies. Different hotels work with different companies and can book your transport to the airport. It’s simplest to hail a taxi on the street or go to a taxi rank and ask for a business card. If you’re satisfied with the company, keep on using it.
Post
The main post office is on Yeni Posthane Cad., near the railway station Sirkeçi. other PTT-offices are on Taksim Square and Istiklâl Cad. open 09-17. Closed Sundays.
Pharmacy
Eczanesi. In the window of the pharmacy there is the address and telephone number of the current duty pharmacy. You can also ring 111.
dentists
Ring 112 or contact the German hospital, which has a dentists’ reception.
Address: Siraselviler Cad. 119, Taksim Tel: +90 212 2932150
Telephone and Electricity
Country number +90 Area code 212 220 volt